What the fires burning near Bordeaux's vineyards could mean for France's wine industry

As France battles what President Emmanuel Macron called the country's worst wave of wildfires since World War II, there is also concern about the impact on one of the nation's most prized industries. For generations, wine-making has been deeply woven into French culture and heritage. Now, winemakers and enthusiasts are worried about the economic impact on some of the country's finest products, most notably, renowned reds like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

Last week, authorities ordered the evacuation of almost 60,000 people near the city of Bordeaux, whose vineyards produce approximately 700 million bottles of wine per year, according to investment advising firm Vineyards Bordeaux. 

"The grapes right now are right between when they turn from green to red, and that's the worst time for smoke to hit them," Ray Isle, executive wine editor for Food & Wine, tells CBS News.

While it's too early to tell what the extent of the damage will be, if any, explains Isle, should the smoke linger and stick to the crops, "You're gonna have wine that tastes like licking an ashtray."

Recent history offers warning signs. In 2020, California's wine industry suffered an estimated loss of about $3.7 billion from wildfires, according to The Wine Institute. Those fires ended up burning over 4 million acres of land, according to Cal Fire. "It can be a big problem," says Isle. 

France's wine and spirits industry — a staple of its national economy accounting for about $19 billion in exports in 2024 — was already in trouble before the fires started raging. 

Following the introduction of new U.S. tariffs, French customs says wine exports to the U.S. fell 39% in the fourth quarter of 2025 compared with the fourth quarter of 2024. Wine consumption as a whole is declining, according to the French Agriculture Ministry, with the government funding permanent vineyard removal in some cases.

The good news is that the fire has stopped advancing, according to updates from French authorities. But that might not be enough to mitigate what could be a public relations fallout, Isle argues.  

"The big problem in terms of financial damage is that three years down the line, when these red wines are released, people are gonna remember … that the whole place caught on fire," Isle said. 

While French producers won't bottle undrinkable wine, those mental images might have "an effect on people's willingness to buy wines," he adds. 

Moreover, while smoke damage can be partly ameliorated by filtering, the process isn't suitable for high-end wines, as it will affect their flavor.